anti-inflammation-serum

Anti-Inflammation Serum with Chamomile, Green Tea Extract and Calendula

This DIY Anti-inflammation Therapeutic Serum with Chamomile, Calendula, and Green Tea is an anti-inflammation and hydration powerhouse. In fact, while naming it, I considered naming it, “Glow Potion” because after using it for a few days, your skin will start glowing.

This serum was designed to replace a moisturizer with carefully selected botanical extracts and plant oils rich in GLAs to help reduce anti-inflammation while providing some serious hydration.

The best part about this serum? You can make it right at home in your kitchen. Pretty amazing.

About inflammation and the skin

Inflammation is your body’s way of protecting itself from infection, illness, or injury. But for some of us, particularly those with eczema, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, and psoriasis, our body gets confused and it sees common, harmless materials as a threat and overreacts. Although it’s best to understand and treat the root cause of inflammation, this serum can help treat it at the surface level, reduce redness, even out skin tone, and leave your skin looking radiant and healthier.

Measuring out the water phase. There is a water phase, glycerin and gum phase, oil phase, and then a cool down phase.

At a glance:

Type:
Cream Serum

Level:
Advanced: Ingredients can be found at specialty online suppliers

Benefits:
Anti-inflammatory

All natural?
Yes. Contains a natural preservative

Shelf life:
Use within 6 months

anti-inflammatory-serum

Equipment

You’ll need a few special tools to make this professional-level serum. You can pick up these up from Amazon.

Get the recipe

anti-inflammation-serum
5 from 3 votes
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DIY Anti-inflammation Serum with Chamomile, Green Tea Extract and Calendula

This DIY Anti-inflammation Therapeutic Serum with Chamomile, Calendula, and Green Tea is an anti-inflammation and hydration powerhouse. In fact, while naming it, I considered naming it, “Glow Potion” because after using it for a few days, your skin will start glowing.

This serum was designed to replace a moisturizer with carefully selected botanical extracts and plant oils rich in GLAs to help reduce anti-inflammation while providing some serious hydration.

The best part about this serum? You can make it right at home in your kitchen. Pretty amazing.

Total Time 20 minutes
Amount 100 grams

Ingredients

  • 37.25 grams Water Water phase
  • 30 grams Roman Chamomile Hydrosol Water phase
  • 1.5 grams Sodium Lactate Water phase
  • 1 grams DL Panthenol Water phase
  • .5 grams Allantoin Water phase
  • 2 grams Sodium PCA Water phase
  • 4 grams Glycerin Glycerin + gum phase
  • .23 grams Xanthan Gum Soft Glycerin + gum phase
  • 10.3 grams Rosehip Seed Oil Oil phase
  • .7 grams Borage Oil Oil phase
  • 1.5 grams Shea Butter Oil phase
  • 2 grams Cetyl Alcohol Oil phase
  • 4 grams Olivem 1000 Oil phase
  • 1.4 grams Calendula Extract Cool down phase
  • 2 grams Green Tea Extract Cool down phase
  • .19 grams Rose Geranium Essential Oil Cool down phase
  • .22 grams Patchouli Essential Oil Cool down phase
  • .2 grams Bergamot Essential Oil Cool down phase
  • .01 grams German Chamomile Essential Oil Cool down phase
  • 1 grams Geogard ECT Cool down phase

Instructions

  1. Use the scale to measure all the water phase ingredients and add them to a beaker. I like to use a 100ml beaker.

  2. Use the scale to measure all the oil phase ingredients and add them to a beaker. I like to use a 50ml beaker.

  3. In a small container (I use disposable plastic shot glasses) mix glycerin and xantham gum and mix well.

  4. In a double boiler, bain marie, or using the microwave in short 30 second bursts, heat the water phase and oil phase ingredients separately until they are 70 degrees C. You can check the temperature using your infrared thermometer. It is very important you don't overheat the ingredients. 

  5. When both beakers of ingredients are heated to exactly 70 degrees C, slowly pour the oil phase into the water phase beaker. Use the mini mixer to mix the solution until it starts to emulsify and slightly thicken. This usually takes around 20 seconds.

  6. Slowly add the glycerin and gum mixture to the beaker. Blend with the mini mixer around 5 seconds, then turn off the mixer and hand stir until the gum and glycerin phase is well incorporated. Usually takes around 30 to 45 seconds. Don't overmix or your lotion might separate later.

  7. Move the beaker to a bowl with ice and let cool to 40 degrees C. Stir occasionally. Usually takes a few minutes. 

  8. When the mixture reaches 40 degrees C, measure and add the cooldown phase ingredients. Hand mix with powered off mini mixer until all ingredients are added. 

  9. Pour into a small container. A container with a flip top is best to avoid contaminating the serum with your hands. Let cool with the lid off for an hour.

  10. Add the top and label with the serum name and date. 

  11. Use serum twice a day for anti-inflammatory benefits. 

The formula

anti-inflammatory-serum-formula

This is a little look inside my formulation process. I use a spreadsheet with weights, percentages, and pricing information for every new I make.

About the ingredients

Water Phase

Roman Chamomile Hydrosol (or Hydrolat)

The water produced during the distillation of chamomile. It is known for its healing properties and helps calm rashes, rosacea, and acne. If you have very dry skin, consider removing this hydrosol and replacing with distilled water or rose geranium hydrosol.

DL-Panthenol aka Pro-Vitamin B5

The human body readily absorbs DL-Panthenol through the skin, and it rapidly converts D-Panthenol to Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5). D-Panthenol helps heal wounds and has an anti-inflammatory effect and reduce redness and maintaining skin elasticity and softness.

Glycerin

Like Sodium PCA, Glycerin is a humectant that acts like a sponge and helps pulls in water to the outer skin layer. Although you could use only Sodium PCA, I like to include glycerin because it helps soften xanthan gum leaving it easier to disperse in the final product.

Sodium lactate

Sodium lactate a liquid salt created by the fermentation of sugars found in corn and beets. It is a humectant and helps draw moisture to the skin and helps make oils feel less greasy.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA is a naturally occurring component of skin and is found in the Natural Moisturizing Factor and is a naturally occurring humectant that helps attract moisture from the air.  Sodium PCA is a thick and clear liquid.

Allantoin

Allantoin is a gentle, non-irritating nature-identical ingredient that promotes the formation of healthy, smooth skin and prevents dull, sallow skin. It is often used as an active ingredient in heavy duty moisturizing skin creams. Allantoin often comes in the form of a white powder.

Oil Phase

Rosehip Oil

Rosehip Seed Oil is harvested from the seeds of the rose hip and is a rich yellow color that gives this light cream it’s color. It has a non-greasy skin feel that moisturizes dry or damaged skin. Studies have found Rosehip Seed Oil is very effective in reducing hyperpigmentation of scars and stretch marks, regenerating damaged tissue, epithelizing wounds, and reducing the appearance of age spots, as well as repairing damage caused by acne and sun exposure. It improves skin texture and decreases skin discoloration, promoting a more uniform skin color.

Borage Oil

Borage oil is one of the most effective oils for inflammation due to its high levels of is e essential fatty acid gamma linolenic acid (GLA). This recipe uses it at lower levels because the smell is fishy and unpleasant when used at higher levels.

Shea Butter

Shea butter comes from the seeds of the fruit of the Shea (Karite) tree, and that is naturally rich in vitamins A, E and F.  It helps thicken the serum. If you wanted a thicker serum, you could use more

Cool Down Phase

Green Tea Extract

Green Tea Extract is one of my favorite antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients and helps protect your skin against environmental pollutants, soothes skin and help prevent redness.

Flavonoids are the main reason green tea extracts superpowers helping to boost immune response in skin cells, making the skin better able to protect itself against external skin stressors. Also. Catechins in Green Tea Extract act as a sunblock and as a way to reduce signs of aging in sun-damaged skin.

Green tea is an anti-inflammatory agent, so it will soothe your skin and help prevent redness.

Calendula Extract

Calendula is a botanical extract from marigolds. It is a potent anti-inflammatory and promotes wound healing, especially when combined with allantoin healing redness, acne, and sunburn.

Geogard ECT or Preservative Eco

A natural preservative that helps prevent the growth of bacteria and yeast. It is a mix of benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, glycerin, and sorbic acid. This preservative requires a pH of 3 – 8 and is used around .6% to 1% of the total formula. I generally use at 1%.

Rose Geranium Essential Oil

This essential oil gives a slight rose aroma. In Chinese homeopathy, rose geranium essential oil is said to open up the liver chakra and promote the expulsion of toxins that prohibit the achievement of balance within the body.

Patchouli Essential Oil

This oil is anti-inflammatory, calming, grounding and adds a slight, woody base note.  I prefer the light version, sometimes combined with another oil to avoid the heavy-ness that some describe they feel with patchouli.

German Chamomile Essential Oil

This oil is potent, both as an anti-inflammatory and from an aromatic perspective. It smells wonderfully earthy but should only be used in small amounts to avoid being overpowering. It has a beautiful blue color due to the high level of azulene.

Bergamot Essential Oil

The scent is bright, uplifting, and recognizably citrusy, yet a little more green than lemon or grapefruit. Since bergamot is phototoxic and shouldn’t be used in large amounts on the skin.  Helps provide a subtle top note to the formulation.

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About the author

I’m Drew, creator of Botaneri and an artisanal skincare formulator and certified aromatherapist who is here to help take the mystery out of DIY natural beauty. I started creating my own plant-based skin and body care products at home to deal with my own skin issues.

What I love most is helping people create luxurious and effective self-care products right in their own kitchens. It’s a lot easier than you think. Trust me, if I can do it, so can you.